Expert Blogs – Style
By Hilton Hollis

GET THE RIGHT FIT
Posted on October 7, 2008

For most of us, it is nearly impossible to walk into a shop and pull an item of clothing off a rack knowing that it will fit perfectly. Unfortunately, this is why insanely long fitting room lines will continue to be a fact of life. (Schedule accordingly, ladies!) It isn't only picking the correct size that can be a challenge. Finding the right fit for your body type can make the difference between creating a sleek and sophisticated look and simply having something to wear.

Clothes are made for a standard that each designer decides upon for his or her look. And these standards are by no means universal. It is common to fluctuate between sizes in different designer collections. So many of us are trapped into believing that we are a certain size, and if that size in a particular line does not work on our bodies, then we believe that the style is simply not right for us. In reality, understanding fit and how a garment is meant to sit on the body is infinitely more important than the size tag. By purchasing a garment that fits your body, or having that garment properly tailored for your body, you can achieve a custom-made look.

A great-fitting jacket is the most important part of an outfit. Not only is it the first piece of your outfit that people will see; it also creates a basis of structure for a well thought-out look. A jacket should skim the body, unless it has a boxy or voluminous silhouette. When trying on a jacket, there are a few things that need to be considered in order to achieve the perfect fit.

1. As you stand in front of a mirror, a jacket armhole seam should be directly over the top of your shoulder bone, and a shoulder pad should not extend past the imaginary edge of your shoulder.

2. The body of a fitted jacket should have about one and a half to two inches of room down the back when pinched out of the center back. This indicates that the jacket fits your body and will provide you with enough room to move around and feel comfortable.

3. The sleeve length on a full-sleeve jacket should end at the point where your palm meets your wrist when your arm is bent at the elbow. As sleeve length is one of the easiest alterations to make, be sure that your jacket fits properly through the shoulder and body first. The sleeve can always be taken up.

Pant and skirt lengths vary from designer to designer, but most women know what they are comfortable with. I think a great standard rule for hemming pants is that when you are barefoot and standing on a hard surface, the pant hem edge should hit the floor but should not puddle. Obviously, if your Jimmy Choos have a five-inch heel, then you should take that into account. I also suggest (if it fits into your budget) buying two pairs of the same pants if you find one that you love. Have one hemmed for heels and the other for flats. You can ask your tailor to add a colored tab or ribbon inside the waistband to indicate which one is which. It is also simple to take a Sharpie and put an initial inside to indicate it.

As for skirts, the most flattering place for a skirt to hit is just below the knee. However, it can be tailored to whatever length you are most comfortable with.

Knits are fantastic because they fit so many different shapes. Keep in mind that knits also cling to the body. If you have areas that you are looking to camouflage, make sure that the knit is substantial enough to mask those areas or big enough that the garment doesn't grab on to them.

It is common that garments purchased off the rack will not meet all of the standards for proper fit discussed above. If you find that your garments aren't fitting in just the right way, you can have them altered by a professional tailor. A good tailor is sometimes hard to find, but by asking around, you can come up with a good solution. Boutiques in your area can usually recommend someone they trust, or many will have someone on hand as a service to their customers.

Taking the time to try on your clothing and have them altered, if necessary, demonstrates the attention to detail in your look that you apply to all other aspects of your life. Great-fitting clothing has a clean, crisp and professional look. It can make or break your overall image.

Stay perfectly fitted!

Hilton Hollis is creative director of Hilton Hollis International (hiltonhollis.com).

To comment on this blog, e-mail blog@pinkmagazine.com and enter "Hilton Hollis" in the subject line.

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TRAVEL IN STYLE

Posted on August 13, 2008

 

Now that travel to Europe, Asia and the Middle East is met with a similar nonchalance as a trip to the supermarket, we must keep in mind the importance of dressing with style and sophistication, even in environments where conditions are not ideal. Style and comfort are not mutually exclusive concepts.

 

Whether on a two and a half hour flight from New York to Atlanta, or a trip practically around the world, it has become commonplace to forgo the standards of professionalism that we have established in our workplaces for comfort. We should not forget that as we are traveling for business, so are many of our fellow passengers. Some of my most wonderful clients and associates have been discovered while sitting in an airplane or airport. Alternately, with schedules becoming so tightly packed, it is not unusual to step off the plane and into a meeting. While air travel may no longer be glamorous, it doesn't mean that you can't be.

 

To get the right look for your trip, remember that fabrics are the key to your comfort and crisp arrival at your destination. Many designers use knit fabrics that tailor like suiting. In addition to offering comfort, knits have a far greater propensity to resist wrinkling, ensuring that you will leave your flight looking as polished as when you stepped on. Our label has a number of knit pant and jacket options that are perfect for the business traveler.

 

Fabrics made to be wrinkled are always a great choice. Since this fabric trend is growing in popularity, finding crinkled suits and jackets is easy. I also recommend fabrics that naturally resist wrinkles, such as wool, polyester blends, nylon blends and microfibers.

 

Keep in mind that many planes have lint floating around the cabin that will inevitably end up all over your outfit. Dress in fabrics and weaves that reduce that problem (such as fabrics with slick finishes) and avoid fabrics with a pile or nap, such as velvet or corduroy. Always keep a lint roller in your handbag for a quick touch-up upon arrival.

 

Travel just like you would if you were going to meet your mother-in-law for the first time. First impressions can mean the difference in landing a great business deal or landing yourself on the fashion walk of shame.

 

You are on the voyage to becoming a more fashionable you, regardless of your final destination. Stay chic and travel in style.

 

Bon voyage!

 

Hilton Hollis is creative director of Hilton Hollis International (hiltonhollis.com).

To comment on this blog, e-mail blog@pinkmagazine.com and enter "Hilton Hollis" in the subject line.

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AN INTRODUCTION…
Posted on July 8, 2008

Summer is upon us, and I often start the morning in front of my closet, wondering what to wear when it's 96 degrees outside with 90 percent humidity. As creative director of my own fashion company in New York, I probably have more options than most, but trust me: it is difficult all the same.

In a world where seasons are almost obsolete, I know many of you wonder, "How do I look professional while staying cool in the process?" Well, here's hoping you aren't like the majority of the women I see on the subway in the fashion capital of the world. To my surprise, day after day, I am left shaking my head and hoping that someone will call attention to the women who show up at the office in their bedazzled flip-flops, white tank tops, low-cut blouses and way-too-short skirts.

Let's face it, to be a power player in a man's world, you have to look the part and play it well. Not only are you being judged by your managers on your performance, but you're also under the scrutiny of your co-workers. While you may look amazing in a mini-skirt (and I am sure that Joe in Accounting appreciates your higher hemline), it is not a look that conveys the authority and respect that you have earned. Don't falter in the "heat" of the moment. Instead, lighten up your look. Brighten your hair with some highlights and throw on an unexpected splash of color, while still staying professional.

Tropical-weight wools are great in a warm and humid climate. Yes, wool. It has excellent wicking ability and draws heat and moisture away from the body. Find light weights, colors and weaves that work for you. Layering a sleeveless silk shell in a splash of color underneath is a perfect match for those weights. If you work in a more relaxed environment, keep a lightweight cardigan in your desk drawer for when you don't need to be perfectly matched and suited. Go with a neutral that will lend itself to any fashion color you may be wearing.

Cottons are great for those of you who don't need to be so "suited." I love to see women play off colors in a nice printed cotton poplin or voile skirt paired with a tissue-weight twin-set in a complementary color. Obviously the print depends on your taste, but make sure that you don't cause a meltdown by choosing a print that screams as you walk in the door. Prints should be sophisticated and understated at work. If a salesperson tries to push something on you described as "ditsy," "pucciesque" or "retro," it may be best saved for an evening out on the town.

Don't let your outfit wear you. Release your inner diva, but make sure that she is properly attired for work. Make a lasting impression by staying on top of the office list of women that others want to emulate.

Stay cool and fashionable.

Hilton Hollis is creative director of Hilton Hollis International (hiltonhollis.com).

To comment on this blog, e-mail blog@pinkmagazine.com and enter "Hilton Hollis" in the subject line.

COMMENTS

What a great post! Thanks Hilton for giving us the real scoop on how women can look professional and fashionable even in high temperatures! As the president of www.WomensWisdomNetwork, we're always looking for good information for our  women in business. Keep up the great posts!
Terri Murphy